Outdoor Life

Kelly Butte Lookout

One of my favorite things to do in the summer is climb to lookouts. My first of this year was Kelly Butte on the July 4th weekend. My husband drove us to the trailhead through a meandering of forest roads and I was surprised at the chill in the air when I opened my car door at the trailhead.

Clouds clung to the top the mountain and I was positive we’d be socked in at the top, but every now and then the sun would poke out to give us a little hope of views at the top.

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The trail starts out lazily on an old continuation of the road through forest. We let Nali off the leash to run free and smell all the smells. Soon we arrived at the official trailhead where it abruptly switchbacks up and up through some fascinating geologic features. One particular rock outcrop looks like stairs and I joked that we could just climb up them for a shortcut.

Instead we kept to the narrow trail rising along the steep slope. I read that originally this area had a makeshift climbers trail that had to be scrambled up. While this seems plausible, I was happy for the tread.

Once cresting the steep section the trail opens up into broad meadows. Red paintbrush, blue lupine and white beargrass painted the slopes in patriotic splendor as the grade eased to mellow.

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The sun still poked in and out of fast-moving low clouds. We delightedly watched them whip by. As we climbed we entered an alpine forest shrouded in fog. The white of the beargrass stood out on the background of dark green meadow like constellations. Soon we caught a glimpse of the lookout in the mist.

The lookout was open and we let ourselves in to take shelter from the cold and enjoy our lunch. We were amazed at the care that was taken to keep the lookout in amazing shape. The structure was originally built in the 1920’s and rebuilt several times with the latest restoration in 2011. A nice plaque hangs commemorating the volunteer effort to preserve this piece of history.

As we ate our pb & j sandwiches the wind picked up and whistled through the rafters. As usual while in a lookout, I thought about what it would be like to be there during a storm and got a little thrill in my stomach. I felt safe and secure in the lookout and lingered as long as possible.

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Before leaving I flipped through the register notebook. Not many people had been there recently, in fact we only saw a few others on the trail that day. I scribbled a line for me, my husband and the dog and then almost as an afterthought, added a plus one. I scribbled “and Baby G (16 weeks pregnant!)” with a big smile on my face. As we put on our jackets to head back down the trail I hoped that our baby could feel he happiness, love and contentment I felt on that mountain.

Hikes Featured in this Post:

Kelly Butte

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Book Club

Phenomena

It’s hard to go into the woods the same way after reading Phenomenal. Every leaf, chirp and rain drop seems like a force of nature, like if I pay attention enough I might feel the earth speaking to me through the souls of my boots, or hear the cloud’s thoughts through a pattern of raindrops. It’s hard to not get the overwhelming feeling that everything is connected, intertwined, full of meaning. There may not be phenomena, per say, on the Barclay Lake Trail, but on this day, everything felt special.

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Our small group set off through the dark forest under the cover of hemlock and cedar. As always, we caught up with each other, what adventures we’ve been on, what good books we’ve read, and our upcoming summer plans. We drew up our hoods as the rain became more steady and hopped the growing puddles.

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Mist shrouded the outlying mountains and all we could see were trees disappearing into the distance. We came to sense a pattern on the trail of trees taking root in the most unlikely of places. Hundred-foot-tall trees sprouted atop giant boulders, their roots exposed and vulnerable, yet they thrive. If the trail had a phenomena, this was it.

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We soon crossed a creek on a log bridge complete with hand rail. The crystal clear water babbled below and I wondered what it was saying. Perhaps it was telling us of its journey from glacier to sea, where it’s been and where it’s going. Or maybe it was just singing to the rocks below thanking them for their strength and navigation.

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As we approached the lake I anticipated some recognition of it. I’d been here before, a long time ago. Laura wondered if she had been here before too, when she was a kid with her dad. He works for the Forest Service and had taken her to seemingly all the lakes in the Cascades, but this one she did not recognize, she said. I didn’t recognize it either, yet I know for a fact I’ve been there. I have a spreadsheet that tells me the exact date and who I was with. Yet, I scour for a familiar rock or lake shore and everything tells me I’ve never seen it before. Maybe it’s changed over the years, or maybe I’ve changed and see things differently now that I’m older and (hopefully) wiser.

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We found a somewhat covered area on the lake shore to have lunch and discuss the book. Each chapter of Phenomenal is about each of the phenomena that Leigh Ann Henion traveled the world to see. We all chose a favorite (mine was the chapter about Hawaii) and if we could choose one of the phenomena to experience, which would it be (most chose the Northern Lights or the bioluminescence). Finally, we shared our stories of phenomena we had witnessed in our lives or hoped to see one day.

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I was thrilled that everyone in the group enjoyed the book because it is one of my very favorite books and has a special place on my bookshelf. Its one of those books that you almost don’t want to share with anyone else because you’re afraid they won’t like it and then it will be a tiny bit ruined for you. But I was really excited to share it with the group and I knew they would all enjoy it. And they did, which made me very happy!

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On the way out, we stopped to admire a blanket of false lily-of-the-valley along the trail. I imagined the little green hearts working together in unison to pump life into the forest floor. There was a lone white bunchberry flower rising up amid the lily leaves seemingly declaring its intention to be different. I admired its confidence. Then I wondered what it looks like under the earth with all those roots like the arteries in our bodies. Oh, to walk through the forest with the sense of wonder given to me by this wonderful (you may even say phenomenal) book!

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Phenomenal by Leigh Ann Henion

 

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Book Club

Spirited Waters

I was surprised to find our biggest group yet on a cold and rainy Sunday. A few of us camped overnight at Bowman Bay and the others reported driving through heavy rain to meet us. But the group was armed with rain jackets and pack covers and even an umbrella. We headed up the trail.

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I chose Deception Pass for this month’s hike because of its accessibility, easy wandering trails and spring wildflowers. But more than that, these places where land meets water are quite special. Often there is more wildlife to be seen and the air is so refreshing. I also chose it because it was the closest we could get to the scenery Jennifer Hahn experienced on her journey through the inside passage, recounted in this month’s book choice, Spirited Waters.

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First we headed to Rosario Head protected overhead from the rain by the canopy of cedar and madrona trees. We stopped to admire the wooden carved statue of the Maiden of Deception Pass. Her story is told in placards circling the statue and each side depicts her transformation into a sea woman with barnacles and seaweed hair.

From there we continued to Rosario Head where the meadows sprawled into the sea. Purple camas sprinkled the grass and the wind whipped up around us. We watched the white caps of a dominant current out in the water and I thought of Hahn in her kayak crossing open waters in stormy weather. I am in awe of her solo journey through the Inside Passage, I certainly would not have the courage.

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As we completed the loop around Rosario Head we were back in the protection of the trees. Returning to Bowman Bay, we spotted some seals poking their curious heads out of the water. We continued past the parking lot and headed for Lighthouse Point. The tide was up but lowering, so we walked across the slippery rocks and barnacles to meet the trail.

Once off the beach, the trail enters a beautiful thick forest. In a few spots the trees open up to allow views of the water and the Deception Pass Bridge. We stopped to watch unidentified wildlife splashing away along the shoreline. At the point, the views open up and the entire span of the bridge can finally be seen. Bracing ourselves against the wind, we explored the headlands.

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Once we’d had enough we headed back toward the trailhead. Now the rain was becoming steady again and we had no trees to thank for cover. We took to the old CCC built picnic shelter and had our lunch and book discussion. We all seemed to agree that Jennifer Hahn has a great sense of voice and that her story is an inspiring one. I especially loved her constant battle with herself that she writes in back and forth dialogue with herself. I recognized this behavior in myself of course.

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Even though it was a cold and rainy day, I left the trail with happiness and warmth from our little group. It was a boost that I needed to get through the month and excitement to see what our next adventure will be.

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Nutella Chocolate Chip Cookie Recipe:

1/2 cup butter, softened
3/4 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup sugar
1 egg + 1 egg yolk
1 tsp vanilla
1/2 cup Nutella
2 1/3 cup all purpose flour
1 1/4 tsp baking soda
1 tsp cornstarch
1/2 tsp salt
1 1/4 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips

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  1. Preheat oven to 350F
  2. In a large bowl, beat butter for 1 minute until creamy. Add sugar and brown sugar and beat on medium high until light and fluffy.
  3. Beat in egg, egg yolk and vanilla. Add 1/4 cup Nutella and beat until combined.
  4. In a separate bowl, combine flour, cornstarch, baking soda and salt together.
  5. Mix in wet ingredients until combined. Add 1 cup chocolate chips.
  6. Add remaining Nutella and beat for 5-10 seconds until Nutella is just streaked through the dough.
  7. Scoop and roll dough in to 1 Tbsp balls and place on lined baking sheet.
  8. Bake for 10 minutes until golden brown.

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We had some great bloggers with us on the trail today. Check them out here:

Pacific Northwest Seasons

A Day Without Rain

Happiest Outdoors

Spirited Waters by Jennifer Hahn

 

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Road Trip

Lake Quinault

The Lake Quinault Lodge on the Olympic Peninsula makes a great spring getaway destination. My husband and I headed there last year about this time. This is the kind of place to go when you wish for a misty rainy day, but last year was dry and we ended up having beautiful sunny weather. We didn’t complain too much.

The historic lodge is v-shaped with open arms to the shores of Lake Quinault. At it’s heart is a giant welcoming fireplace and a large lounge space with big comfy sofas, perfect for curling up and reading a book. Outside the massive yard begs to be walked on with bare feet. Famously, a towering totem pole shaped rain gauge climbs the chimney to measure the rainfall in feet.

Like much of the western Olympic Peninsula, the Quinault is a temperate rain forest. This southwest portion of the peninsula is the wettest, racking up an average of 140 inches a year. That’s almost 12 feet! The area around the lodge is criss-crossed in ten miles worth of trails through the forest.

This is the land of the giants. You may just find yourself under the largest Alaska Cedar, Coast Douglas Fir or Sitka Spruce in all of Washington. You don’t have to go far to feel the majesty and breathe in the energy of the impressive trees.

We wandered a bit further into the valley on the North Fork Quinault River trail. The trail follows the river for what feels like forever into the heart of the Olympics. This trail is just as green and impressive as it’s famous neighbor, the Hoh River trail, but much less crowded. In fact, we only ran into a few people on the 10 miles of trail.

With some trails under our belts, my husband wanted to try some fly fishing on the river. Last year the rivers were extremely low in this area, but he still wanted to see if he could get some nibbles. I’m not much of a fisherwoman (is that a word?). In fact, I’m pretty good at getting the hook anywhere except for in the water.

But I could sit on the banks of a river for hours. Just watching and listening calms me and I love lounging around on the shores and reading a book. But this trip I decided to try something new. I brought my paints and sketchbook and practiced a bit while the sun set.

My sketches were not good but I enjoyed picking out the intricate details of a river smoothed rock or every jagged edge of a tree limb. To sketch a place means to observe it in all it’s being. Like a meditation, it occupies the mind even if just for a little bit. The whole weekend in Quinault was rejuvenating. There is just something energizing about all those trees…

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510XxP1DgHL._SX258_BO1,204,203,200_A Pacific Northwest Nature Sketchbook by Jude Siegel
From choosing a palette and mixing colors to exercises for perfecting your sketches, Jude takes you through the sketching and watercolor painting process from beginning to finish. She focuses on natural subjects like rocks, trees, water and mountains and sprinkles in many of her own paintings of her favorite places around the northwest. Jude lives in Oregon and teaches workshops. You can find more about her and the book on her website.

 

 

 

 

 

Hikes Featured in this Post:
North Fork Quinault River
Quinault Lodge Loop

Book Club

An Impressive Walk

As I drove to the Old Sauk trailhead, I was sure it would start raining any minute. The dark clouds hovered above the trees and mountains: Pilchuck, Three Fingers, then Whitehorse and the Twin Sisters, blazes of white against the gray. Along the Mountain Loop Highway the towering saturated green trees hugged me and welcomed me back. It’s been a while, old friends, I thought to myself, thankful for the return of spring and the promise of many more visits to come.

I met up with our growing group at the trailhead. I was thrilled to have some new faces in the group as well as others that have become familiar. Our little group of bloggers that met up as strangers not even a year ago were reunited and I’m so happy they have since become my good friends. We gave quick introductions and headed down the trail.

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It’s immediately evident that this trail is a special one. The trees are speckled with moss and sage green lichen giving them an ethereal quality. If they glowed in the dark you could find as many constellations as there are in the night sky. The longer I look I get lost in them and wonder if I am gazing into the past, into the time before there were eyes like mine to see them. When there was only the river, the ferns, the moss, the lichen, the rocks.

My senses were overwhelmed as we stop each other to point out each sign of spring we saw. I heard a squeal of joy as Lainey discovered a trillium and another from Laura who spotted the teeny tiny pink bells of flowers on a huckleberry bush. We imagined ourselves as woodland fairies taking Sunday naps on the soft tufts of moss that covered every branch and surrounding forest floor, shaded by the tiniest white mushrooms caps you’ve ever seen.

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As lunchtime approached we found a comfy place to sit and share our thoughts about the book, Grandma Gatewood’s Walk. Emma Gatewood’s walk through the woods of the Appalachian Trail could not have been more different than ours. She was escaping some fierce demons in her life and she was alone without the modern comforts of proper hiking boots, backcountry stoves, freeze dried food or even a tent. She carried a meager 20 pounds of gear with only a shower curtain to protect her from the rain and depended on the kindness of strangers for a meal and a place to sleep. When there were none, she foraged what food she could find in the woods and slept on a bed of leaves.

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During the 1950’s when Emma embarked on the Appalachian Trail, a huge cultural shift was taking place. The national highway system was becoming established and everyone used their cars to get around. In many places a lack of sidewalks made it impossible to walk from place to place. I didn’t realize just how much people used to walk until Montgomery points out in the book that people used to regularly walk 20 miles a day! Charles Dickens once said, “walk and be happy; walk and be healthy.”

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Emma Gatewood’s story is an inspiring one. She learned about the Appalachian Trail in an issue of National Geographic magazine and just decided to do it one day. She didn’t let the fact that she was 67 years old, had 11 grown children and a horrible abusive husband hold her back. She never felt sorry for herself or tried to justify what she was doing. When asked why she was doing it she simply said, “because I wanted to.”

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As we were walking back on this trail filled with life and incredibly scenery, I felt grateful. Grateful for the comfort of the forest, grateful that it never rained on us, grateful that I have a caring and loving husband, grateful that we have these trails to walk in the age of the car, and grateful for these wonderful people who came out to share a book and a hike with me.

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Be a trail angel and make these for your next group hike to share. 🙂

Whole Grain Blueberry Muffin Recipe:
1 1/4 c whole wheat flour
1 c old fashioned rolled oats
1/4 c flax seed
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1 c plain yogurt (I use Nancy’s Organic Plain Non-fat Yogurt)
1/2 c light brown sugar
2 Tbsp butter, melted
1 Tbsp grated orange zest
1/4 c fresh squeezed orange juice
1 egg
1 tsp vanilla
1 1/2 c fresh or frozen blueberries

  1. Preheat oven to 350F. Ground the oats and flax seed into a meal (I use a coffee grinder).
  2. Combine flour, oat meal, flax seed meal, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
  3. In a separate bowl, whisk together yogurt, brown sugar, butter, orange zest & juice, egg, and vanilla.
  4. Add flour mixture to wet ingredients and mix until just incorporated, fold in blueberries.
  5. Divide into greased muffin pan. Bake 25-30 minutes.

Grandma Gatewood’s Walk by Ben Montgomery

 

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Book Club

Magic Among the Trees

I gotta say, we could not have asked for a more beautiful February day for the first ever meeting of the Alpine Trails Book Club! Some dark clouds threatened in the morning, but we reached the lake just in time to bask in the sunshine. The six of us (and two dogs) got an early start as we headed up the switchbacks through green forest with some impressive old growth cedars. We saw a woodpecker and heard other various birds chirping throughout the forest- a sure sign of spring to come!

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At the lake we paused to check out the fascinating sandstone rock formations with their improbably clinging trees and found a sunny spot to rest and have lunch. We talked a bit about the book- everyone that read it loved it- and I shared some of my favorite quotes:

Jack would have spoken to her, but her eyes – the broken blue of river ice, glacial crevasses, moonlight – held him.

I see that life itself is often more fantastic and terrible than the stories we believed as children, and that perhaps there is no harm in finding magic among the trees.

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We never know what is going to happen, do we? Life is always throwing us this way and that. That’s where the adventure is. Not knowing where you’ll end up or how you’ll fare. It’s all a mystery, and when we say any different, we’re just lying to ourselves. Tell me, when have you most felt alive?

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We discussed poetry- did you catch the reference to Robert Service in the book? He wrote about the gold rush in the Yukon and his poems really speak to the hardships of the time but also the draw on the beauty and adventure of the north.  The Spell of the Yukon is my favorite poem of his. You may have also caught another reference to a famous poet, Emily Dickinson, during the wedding scene (which we all agreed was a favorite part of the book!) with “Hope” is the Thing With Feathers.

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After lunch we finished circling the lake and headed back down the trail. We passed many hikers and dogs on their way up and then took the short spur trail to the overlook. We were glad we saved it for last since the clouds dispersed and left us with beautiful blue skies. Our hike, thankfully, did not evoke the intense cold that Mabel, Jack and the snow child endured, nor did we encounter any snow, but the wintry green forests of the northwest always have a bit of magic and mystery in them to me.

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The Snow Child by Eowyn Ivey

 

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Outdoor Life

How to: A Realistic Valentine’s Sunset Hike

Note: Oyster Dome, the gorgeous trail featured in this post, is currently under threat of clear cutting that will drastically alter the trail and others around it including Lily Lake. Read more about it here and find out what you can do. Now onto the post…

Step 1: Hold breath while checking calendar a month in advance. Husband is not working day shift, night shift, on call, or out of town AND Valentine’s Day is on a weekend! It’s a miracle!

Step 2: Choose a trail that almost meets all of your unrealistic expectations: has spectacular unobstructed west-facing views, a water feature (preferably with an island or two), is easy to navigate in the dark, and is not too difficult (sweating is not romantic, you guys). Oyster Dome has all the things!  Although, let’s face it, there is going to be sweating. There is always sweating…

Step 3: Completely forget about plans until Valentine’s Day morning and wake up in a panic. But oh, sweet joy! You planned a sunset hike and you don’t have to get out of bed for hours! Propose deal to get husband to make you blueberry pancakes and bacon for breakfast in exchange for carrying the backpack up Oyster Dome. It’s totally worth it. Then make mental note to find smallest bottle of wine known to man to pack for the hike.

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Step 4: Pack up the car and the dog and convince husband that the blanket is the thing that makes it a picnic and that yes, it is absolutely necessary to bring along. Stop at the grocery store to purchase picnic items. Branch out and get those little french pickles and something you’ve never had before like quince spread. Then grab the old staples: salami, cheese, and water crackers. Lastly, get one of those super chocolatey tiny fancy round cakes in the bakery section for dessert. Don’t worry, you earned all of it.

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Step 5: Hike up Oyster Dome while regretting the deal to carry the backpack and attempt not to sweat. Reach the rocky overlook and choose a spot to put down the (totally necessary) blanket while pointing out how freaking photogenic it is. Nosh on your new favorite thing in the world, crackers with cheese and quince spread, while the sun begins to set. Spend like half an hour setting up the tripod and camera and take a hundred photos to capture a romantic moment between the two of you before finally getting one where you are not in mid-run when the timer goes off or the dog’s tail does not appear to be coming out of the side of your head. Then pause for just a moment when your husband and the dog look at each other and feel your heart melt with love. While hiking down the trail in complete darkness, stop, turn off the headlamps, hold hands, and look up until the stars come into focus. Vow to do it all again next year.

Hikes featured in this post:
Oyster Dome

Road Trip

Whidbey Island

My husband, Nali, and I were invited to spend the past weekend on Whidbey Island with friends. We started off the weekend with a leisurely hike at Ebey’s Landing. It’s one of my favorite winter hikes and the sun even came out for us, just a little. The trail starts off parallel to farm fields speckled green with winter plantings. The lush green rolling fields reminded me of my home state Pennsylvania.

Soon the trail comes to a tee at a bluff overlooking the Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains. The ferries and container ships crisscrossing the Sound looked like bathtub toys from our vantage. As we headed up to the right, a hang glider swooped overhead with a red, white, and blue sail. We waved and Nali barked at him, startled from his sudden appearance. From there its a short climb to the long winding section along the top of the bluff.

We admired gnarled trees and the winter textures of the dried grasses, oregon grape, and thick thorny bushes. It’s nothing but grand views from the bluff trail. A driftwood covered spit carves out a large lake of green water, calm compared to the opposite side where big frothy waves crashed. Toward the end of the bluff, the trail switchbacks down to the beach to make a loop.

On the beach we turned into the cold headwind and I wished I had a scarf. We scattered out, heads down and hands in our pockets scouring the surface for anything interesting. Nali found and ate some dried bull kelp and dug holes to find who knows what.

By the time we reached the stairs to return we were quite frozen. The incline back up the hill was welcome as it generated some body heat. On the way back we passed by Isaac Ebey’s old home and blockhouse.

Ebey was the first settler on Whidbey Island in 1850 and he and eight family members lived in the house while they farmed the neighboring prairie land. The blockhouse was built as defense in response to continuing conflict with the Native Americans who were displaced from their land. Ebey lived there until he died in 1862. He is buried at the Sunnyside Cemetary, just across the road from the trailhead.

We returned to the cabin just in time for sunset. We poured some cider and headed to the deck with our cameras. The sun lit the clouds in gold as the air grew colder. We went inside and warmed ourselves by the wood stove.

The next morning we explored Langley. Well, mostly we explored the bookstore, Moonraker Books, admired enormously chunky Italian yarn, and grabbed some great coffees. Then our friends made us marvelous cheddar rolls for lunch. After a never ending January, it was the perfect winter getaway without getting too far away.

Hikes featured in this post:
Ebey’s Landing

Outdoor Life

Hiking History: Franklin Falls

Winter is a great time to visit this popular waterfall. The snow gives everything charm, especially the cabins along the creek topped with a thick layer of icing-like snow. The normally two mile hike is extended down the forest road about a mile making it more of a worthwhile destination for the day. It is, however, still as popular as ever in the winter so get there early to avoid the crowds.

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The trail climbs gently through old growth along Denny Creek. In the summertime, you can walk along the Wagon Road Trail adjacent to the falls trail and see the remnants of the original road that climbed over Snoqualmie Pass. The old wagon road was built in 1867 to promote trade between Seattle and Ellensburg. There were frequent cattle drives on the steep road over the pass and maintenance was understandably difficult. Hiking along here, imagine what it would  have been like traveling in a wagon…

The wagon road continued to be the main passage through the mountains for cattle and goods until the Northern Pacific Railroad was completed in 1887. The railroad provided a much easier way to transport freight and the road fell into disrepair. David Denny, brother of Arthur Denny who is one of the founders of Seattle, took it upon himself to save the road. He repaired the road, laid corduroy, and built bridges. In 1905 the first automobiles would cross over the pass on the road that Denny built.

Later, during the 1909 Alaska-Yukon-Pacific Expedition, an auto race over the pass popularized the route. The state planned to build an official highway called the Sunset Highway that would run from North Bend east to the Idaho border. At its opening in 1915, the highway was hailed as “the first passable route between east and west sides of the mountains.” The new highway replaced the steep wagon road grade with switchbacks and hairpin turns that are now part of the forest road 58. The forest road parallels the trail and crisscrosses the original wagon road trail.

The trail to Franklin Falls has much to offer. It’s got old forest, a babbling creek, history and of course, the beautiful 70-foot falls. My favorite part of our winter trek was the impressive icicles guarding the falls on both sides, hanging from the rock like stalagmites. We walked the forest road down to make it a loop and threw snowballs into the deep snow for Nali to chase. She slept the whole way home. It was a perfect winter day.

More info about the Wagon Road

Hikes featured in this post:
Franklin Falls

Road Trip

Paradise, Mount Rainier

Here in Seattle we are lucky (or perhaps you could say unlucky) to have a spectacular volcano watching down on us. Mount Rainier is an active stratovolcano about 60 miles from the city and at 14,400 feet holds plenty of snow to explore all year round. But in the winter time the mountain is especially magical.

The road to Paradise, on the southern side of the mountain, is plowed in the winter for your snow-loving pleasure. The wide open meadows beyond the Paradise Inn beg for sledding, skiing, and snowshoeing. If you are lucky you will get spectacular up-close views of the mountain. The weather up here is famously temperamental. Even on a seemingly blue bird day, clouds can form spoiling your mountain views and even cause whiteouts making it essential to always be prepared in this area. But the extra preparation is worth the hassle to spend a day in paradise.

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My favorite destination from Paradise is Panorama Point. The way weaves through occasional snow covered trees to Glacier Vista, from here climb steeply along the Nisqually Glacier to fantastic views of Rainier and the surrounding mountains. This is the perfect spot to take a rest and fuel up for the return.

My favorite account of life on Mount Rainier is from Floyd Schmoe’s book A Year in Paradise. The book starts out with Floyd describing his honeymoon. He was encouraging his new wife, Ruth, to continue up the mountain on snowshoes. “Come on dear, it’s just over the next ridge,” he told her, her first time ever on snowshoes. They were not just taking a leisurely jaunt up to Panorama Point, they were breaking trail all the way from Longmire at the base of the mountain to Paradise Inn at 5400 feet!

The year was 1920, long before they plowed the road to Paradise, and Schmoe was assigned to man the inn over the winter. His boss told him, “I predict that if you two kids survive this winter alone in Paradise you will live happily together for the rest of your lives and go to heaven when you die.” Then he told him that the inn was covered in 30 feet of snow, and each of its rooms were in complete darkness!

The young couple made the best of their time at the inn. They explored the area on snowshoes in the morning looking for prints in the fresh snow and putting together the stories of the winter wildlife. They dug tunnels in the snow to the windows of the living room to bring some light in. Ruth practiced the piano and honed her high-altitude cooking skills by trial and error. Floyd read books and reported the weather daily to the Weather Bureau in Seattle. Soon they determined that Ruth was pregnant and Floyd built a cradle from the local Alaska yellow cedar as Ruth made baby clothing. Finally they began to notice the ptarmigan and rabbits slowly transforming their coats from brilliant white to brown and black. After their long first winter together in Paradise, it was finally spring.

 

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A Year in Paradise by Floyd Schmoe
That winter in Paradise began Schmoe’s long and wide ranging career at Mount Rainier National Park. He was a caretaker and later a mountain guide until he enrolled at the University of Washington and earned a degree in forestry. He then became the first Park Naturalist employed by MRNP. His memoir recounts his memories and experiences in a sort of almanac divided into seasons of the year. His beautiful stories and observations are a must read for anyone who has fallen under the spell of “the mountain.”

 

 

 

 

 

Hikes featured in this Post:
Panorama Point Snowshoe